A few tips that may help when you’re in Italy next

Tip 1: travelling to towns on Lake Como is hard (but worth it)

Especially on weekends, but any sunny day really, the day-trippers from Milan clog all modes of transport.  On weekends, only travel early or late to Bellagio.  Before 9am or after 3pm.  The easiest way to get to Bellagio is either the C30 bus from Como (it’s actually a really pretty trip, and quicker than the ferry), or get the train from Milan to Varenna and then the ferry to Bellagio.  Ferry ticket waiting times from mid morning till 3pm are around 1.5 hours and you’re no certainty to get on a ferry once you have your ticket (you need to queue again).  The staff for the ferry service are not very helpful and have clearly had a gut-full of tourists.

Oh, and don’t get sucked into doing a day trip to Bellagio.  You have to stay a few nights to have dinner as the sun goes down over the mountains and to see the town in the morning before the crowds.

Tip 2: Get the smallest hire car you need for the number of passengers and luggage

The roads are small, small cars far easier to manoeuvre and to go face to face with buses and trucks on narrow roads. But for places like Tuscany you should do it. You need the car to visit the beautiful small towns.

Tip 3: Hire car Sat Navs are not as reliable as mobile devices

Just use google or apple and save the €60 on the Nav

Tip 4: House wines are often just as nice as the more expensive items on the menu

Don’t be afraid to just grab a carafe of red or white (or both)

Tip 5: the 5pm Apparativo is possibly Italy’s greatest invention / contribution to mankind

Grab a spritz (“Select” is materially nicer than Aperole) or a Negroni (if you’re into self-flagellation), and it will come with some olives, chips, croutons or other nibbles.  It’s awesome, and holds you over for a later dinner.

Tip 6: dinner can be whenever you want, ignore the other blogs

Italians do tend to eat a little later than us, but generally restaurants do their best business 8pm to 9:30pm.  Most, but not all, restaurants are doing dinner from 6:30. We found 8 or 8:30 a great time to sit down and enjoy a bite and a vino with happy people all around. 

Tip 7: the train system is ok, and pretty easy to navigate

Do your research and leave plenty of time for delays or changes, don’t try to get the perfect connections or you’re sure to fail.  Relax and have fun - the journey is part of the holiday. 

While I’m at it, pay the extra for First Class where you can, it’s far more comfortable and usually gets an allocated seat. 

Tip 8: Italy doesn’t wake up till 10

Not a lot tends to be open before 10am - neither shops nor tourist stuff- but that makes it perfect to get up early and explore before the crowds.  In big cities, stand at a bar with the workers and have a cappuccino and a cornetto (Italian croissant) and watch the city come alive.  Apart from the Trevi Fountain - the natural habitat of the Instagrammer - the sights are empty and enjoyable.

Tip 9: look up and look into allys 

There are some great bars on rooftops, or in small alleys.  Top of the Spanish Steps rooftop is awesome, if you can get in, but every city had some cool small spots to grab a coffee or a vino in out of the way spots. Look into the small laneways around 5 and you can get a wonderful surprise (for a drink…mind out of the gutter lads).

Tip 10: use a paper map of the city and pocket the phone

Google or Apple Maps are excellent for getting from A to B when you need to.  However a paper map lets you wander into new and unknown territory, seeing the world and your path in a different, less direct way.  Get lost in the laneways and sights, sounds and smells of a new city.